Le Verger
Le Verger from the field below: the white stone chapel with its red tiled roof, the covered terrace to one side, trees in spring leaf

Wambercourt, Pas-de-Calais

Le Verger

The old stone chapel that Peter and Moira brought back to life, and the people who came to stay.

Le Verger stands on the edge of Wambercourt, a small village near Hesdin in the Seven Valleys of northern France, an hour’s drive from Calais. When Peter and Moira found it, the house had stood empty for about ten years.

They restored it, opened it to guests, and for more than twenty years it was where families gathered at Christmas, friends turned seventy, couples married and golfers came back weekend after weekend. This is a record of what they made, and of the people who stayed.

Le Verger from the drive: the timber-framed covered terrace, the white stone chapel and the west wing under a blue sky
The house from the drive.

14th to 19th century

A chapel, a presbytery, a farm

Nobody knows exactly how old the house is. The main house probably began in the 14th century as a private chapel for the de Créquy family: a de Créquy crest was found inscribed on the wall of the first-floor bedroom.

Later, monks stayed there on wood-cutting trips to the forest at Hesdin. When the church next door was built in the 16th century, the house became its presbytery. Some time in the 19th century it became a farm, with a stable block and hay lofts.

By the time Peter and Moira came to it, nobody had lived there for about ten years.

The white limestone wall of the old chapel with a tall pointed gothic window
The white stone of the old chapel, and the gothic window that was rebuilt with stained glass.
The arched window from inside, its border of blue, red and yellow glass, looking out to the garden
The same window from inside.

2001

The work

Peter and Moira bought the house in 2001 and set about bringing it back.

They kept what the farm had left behind and found new uses for it. The 19th-century stables became the covered terrace: the beams and roof stayed, and the walls were taken away. The rest of the stable block became a huge farmhouse kitchen, with a garden room opening onto the terrace. The hay lofts in the west wing became attic bedrooms with skylights.

In the main house, the gothic arched window was rebuilt with stained glass. The walls, more than a metre thick in places, kept the rooms cool in summer and warm in winter, and the sitting room was built around a big open fire. At the top of the house the attic became the main bedroom, six metres by seven, with timber beams, skylights and a rolltop bath.

Two wings were added to the main building, making a courtyard with the covered terrace along one side.

“What great vision you both have.”

Mike, in a letter to Peter and Moira
The sitting room: a wide stone fireplace, blue sofas and a long wooden coffee table with candlesticks
The sitting room and its fireplace.
The attic bedroom under the roof, with exposed oak beams and a skylight
The attic bedroom at the top of the house.
The gravel courtyard, with the timber-framed covered terrace on the left and the stone chapel on the right
The courtyard, with the covered terrace where the stables used to be.
A man building up a log fire in a tall stone fireplace
Building up the fire.
The house at dusk under a deep blue sky, lights glowing under the covered terrace and on the stone walls
Le Verger at dusk.

One acre

The house and the garden

Verger is French for orchard.

When it was finished, the house slept fourteen in double and twin rooms, with futons and spare beds tucked away for bigger parties. The kitchen had a range cooker, two dishwashers, plates and glasses for thirty, and a long farmhouse table that guests remembered more than anything else. The sitting room had three big sofas, shelves of books and the fire.

Outside there was an acre of garden next to the church, private behind a laurel hedge. There was a copse where hammocks hung between the trees, a field for games and picnics, a kitchen garden of fruit, vegetables and herbs, and a trellised patio by the shed, which held eight bicycles. There was a ping-pong table, two sets of boules and two barbecues.

Guests noticed the small things: deer crossing the field, flycatchers nesting under the eaves of the terrace roof, the delphiniums flattened by a summer thunderstorm. In winter it often snowed, there were hills nearby for sledging, and steaks were cooked on the open fire. In spring the woods around Hesdin filled with wood anemones and bluebells.

“This is a wonderful house to have bad weather in!”

A guest, quoted on the old Le Verger website
The garden: clipped trees, red geraniums and a chair on the grass at the edge of the copse
The copse at the edge of the garden.
A green painted shed under tall trees, with two folding chairs on the lawn
The shed, home to eight bicycles.
A purple hammock on the lawn in bright sunshine, a sun hat on the grass
Summer.
The house and courtyard under snow, a pale winter sun behind the trees
Winter.
A green field edged with tall poplars and fruit trees in fresh spring leaf
The field below the house in spring.

From around 2003

The years of guests

From around 2003 until the house was sold in 2025, Le Verger was a house for groups. Families came for Christmas and New Year, three generations at a time. There were reunions with relatives over from Australia and New Zealand, a seventieth birthday, a Thanksgiving dinner, a book club, golfers who came back for more, and cyclists who stayed three times.

Peter and Moira often cooked. They ran catered golf weekends, and for special occasions they would cook a full dinner and stay to serve it. One guest wrote of a party weekend in the snow: “They were there from 6 until gone midnight having cooked and waited and washed-up.”

There were at least three weddings, with a marquee in the courtyard joined to the covered terrace, services in the local churches, and a horse and carriage through the village. Le Verger was featured in You and Your Wedding magazine.

They kept finding new reasons to fill the house, and invitations survive for some of the occasions they planned.

  • 29 January 2011A Burns Night supper, promising cock-a-leekie soup, the haggis addressed, Scottish pipes and a ceilidh until midnight.
  • Nov and Dec 2012Hosted weekends for the Christmas market at Arras, offering wine tasting at a local cave and dinners back at the house.
  • July 2013French foraging breaks with East Dulwich Naturally, planned around hedgerow leaves and fruit, wild cherries, fish from the port at Étaples, and jams to take home.
  • 24 to 28 MarchA week-long creative writing workshop, full board, wine included.
A big group round the long kitchen table, glasses raised, under the old beams
Round the kitchen table, June 2009.
Dinner by candlelight in front of the open fire
Dinner by the fire.
A bride and groom walking out of the village church as guests throw confetti
Out of the church after a wedding.
Wedding guests at long tables laid with white cloths under the covered terrace
A wedding lunch under the covered terrace.
A bride and groom in an open carriage drawn by a black horse, passing through the village
A wedding carriage in the village.

Next door

The village and the church

Wambercourt is a small village, safe and friendly, and good for children. One family wrote that their children’s highlight was being able to walk to the post box “all by themselves!”

The house stands beside the village church. In the churchyard are three graves of an RAF crew whose plane came down nearby, and they were always well tended. Guests found them too. One family’s children watered the plants there every day of their stay. Another group, finding they were in Wambercourt on the anniversary of the airmen’s deaths, bought flowers and laid them on the graves.

Men walking down a village lane behind a French flag and a Union flag, a boy in a red shirt among them
A commemoration in the village, with the French and British flags carried together.
Fields of cut hay and woods across the valley, a red roof among the trees below
Looking across the valley.

The guest book

In their words

After they went home, guests wrote to Moira and Peter. These are some of those letters, in the guests’ own words, shortened in places.

“Just as we drove in, as if on cue it began to snow. The children were standing in the Manger with Champagne… Everyone kept thinking we were on the set of a film. It was just perfect.”

Mike

“The house stands alone overlooking the old church on one side, the village on another, and open country on the other. Watch out for deer flitting across now and then… you feel at home as soon as you arrive.”

Phil

“My brother and sister in law who have been over from Australia from May said it was the best bit of their whole trip.”

Theresa

“You and your husband should be really proud of what you have achieved with the house. We thought it was fantastic.”

Mr and Mrs B

“We all had such fun at the party and it’s no problem reaching 70 when sharing it with family and friends.”

Dee

“Come each evening we would congregate on the covered patio for pre-dinner drinks before gathering round the wonderful dining table for Grand Dejeuner, more wine and silly games… We were also lucky enough to be able to watch a pair of flycatchers hatching their young in the eve of the patio roof.”

Roz, Drew and co.

“The entire family agreed that the birthday cake was the best ever. Can’t go wrong with chocolate mousse!”

Irene

“Some members of the family have been holidaying in France for 28 years and they commented that this was the best ever location and house they have stayed in… ps are you taking bookings for next year?”

Terry and Jeanette

“My son, age 13, didn’t seem to miss the TV at all. I always take my knives with me but I didn’t need them at all. The kitchen was amazing!”

Michelle

“We had a great time last week at your house, probably the best of the three times we have stayed there… we chose some good routes for cycling over the hills and around the valleys.”

Andrew (the cyclists)

“The living room was warm and welcoming in the freezing weather with a big fire going and there were enough beds for an army.”

Lindsay

“Thank you for letting us share in a lovely and well loved home… Northern France was to us, a place that we hurried through on our way to other parts, we didn’t realise that it had so much to offer.”

Mike and Joyce

“The kitchen in particular was very conducive to long evenings sitting around the table eating lots and drinking French wine.”

Oonagh

“We were 9 adults and 5 kids in the end, celebrating an early Christmas together. The kitchen was the hub of all our activities and our Christmas dinner was a success thanks to the huge oven!”

Julie

“We had a great time celebrating thanksgiving at your house in northern france!… Not least in setting me together with Seb to sort out the turkey.”

Thomas

“I am also in a book club (loved looking at your book shelves) so it may be that 9 ladies come at some point!”

Adrienne

“The youngsters organised a table tennis tournament, and the middle age group made full use of the barbecue (including sea bass one day and butterflied leg of lamb another!!)”

Ann

“We played golf on four days and did not get a single drop of rain… The food was excellent as usual and was enjoyed by everyone.”

Robin

“We were all overwhelmed on our arrival not only at its size and layout but also the warm and comfort we felt during our stay.”

Mr and Mrs H

From the albums

Photographs

A wide field of yellow rapeseed under a big sky, with wooded hills on the horizon
Spring fields in the Pas-de-Calais.

The Seven Valleys

The place

Map of the Pas-de-Calais showing Calais, Boulogne, Le Touquet, Montreuil, Hesdin and Arras, with Wambercourt circled between Montreuil and Hesdin
Wambercourt, circled, between Montreuil and Hesdin. See it on OpenStreetMap.

Wambercourt sits in the Pays des Sept Vallées, the seven river valleys between the Course and the Authie, with the Planquette running through the village. The Sunday Times once called it “Northern France’s best-kept-secret terrain”.

The battlefield of Agincourt is six kilometres away. In Fressin, the next village, are the ruins of a 15th-century château. Montreuil, the walled town that inspired part of Les Misérables, is 25 minutes away, and Hesdin, with its old square and market, ten minutes. Beyond them are the long beach at Le Touquet and the fishing port at Étaples.

Market stalls in a town square behind a fountain
Market day in Montreuil.
A crate of pink radishes with a handwritten chalk price sign
Radishes from the market.

2025

A new family

In early 2025 Le Verger was sold to a new family, and it is their home now. The house is no longer available to rent.

Thank you to everyone who stayed over the years. Your family holidays, weddings, celebrations and quiet weeks away made the house what it was.